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SVC 03 to 07 / Insulation, boarding & ladders
A loft that works.
Insulation laid properly. Boarding raised above it so it keeps working. A hatch and ladder that make the space easy to use.
Laid properly, not just rolled out.
Loft insulation only works when the details are right. Current guidance for lofts is around 270 mm of mineral wool, but depth on its own isn't the job. On every install we:
- Lay two layers, one between the joists and one across them, to close the gaps heat escapes through
- Keep the eaves clear so air can move through the roof
- Work round downlights, wiring, pipes and tanks instead of burying them
- Insulate and draught-seal the hatch, which is often the coldest spot in the ceiling
If the insulation that's there is damp, squashed or dirty, we take it out and start clean, with photos before and after. Insulation removal.
Three materials. Which one depends on the roof.
Most lofts want mineral wool at joist level. Some need something else, and we'll say which when we quote.
SVC 03
Mineral wool
The standard for a cold loft. Rolls laid between and across the joists to around 270 mm. Breathable, cheap, and what surveyors expect to find.
SVC 04
Rockwool
Stone wool slabs and rolls. Denser than glass wool, doesn't burn, and cuts noise. Used for party walls, floors over garages and anywhere fire performance matters.
SVC 05
SuperFOIL multi-foil
Thin reflective layers fixed between or under the rafters, with an air gap each side. For where there's no depth for wool: room-in-roof conversions, dormers, tight sloping ceilings.
SVC 06 & 07 / Boarding & ladders
Storage that doesn't undo the insulation.
Boards laid straight onto the joists squash the insulation underneath, and squashed insulation stops working. We fit boarding on a raised frame above the full depth, so you gain storage without losing the benefit.
- Raised frame keeps the full 270 mm working underneath
- Boards fixed properly. No creak, no flex, safe to walk and stack on
- Insulated, draught-sealed hatches, enlarged where the opening is too tight
- Aluminium or timber loft ladders, fitted and adjusted to your ceiling height
A boarded loft with a decent ladder is one of the cheapest ways to add usable space to a house.
Old wool out, new wool in.
Insulation as found on one job and as laid on another. The note under each record says which is which.
Questions we get asked.
How much difference does proper loft insulation make?
A lot of a home's heat goes out through an under-insulated roof. Bringing a poorly insulated loft up to current guidance is one of the cheapest improvements you can make. The saving depends on your house, and we'd rather give you an honest view for your house than a headline number.
Can you board over my existing insulation?
Yes, that's what raised boarding is for. The frame lifts the deck above the insulation so nothing gets crushed. If what's there is below current guidance it usually makes sense to top it up in the same visit.
How long does the work take?
Insulation on its own is usually a day. Insulation plus boarding, hatch and ladder is one to two days depending on the size of the loft. Your written quote gives the time for your job.
Will my loft still be ventilated?
Yes. Keeping air moving through the roof is part of doing the job properly. We keep the eaves clear when we lay insulation and never block them with boarding.
See what your loft could be.
Tell us the loft size and what's there now. We quote in writing for insulation, boarding and a ladder.